Last Updated on February 3, 2026 by Vlad
Tonight at our place, we’ll be eating uncut sushi rolls without speaking, then throwing beans at whoever draws the short straw to wear the oni mask. Just another regular day in a house that celebrates Japanese traditions.
Welcome to Setsubun – one of Japan’s quirkier festivals that perfectly combines ancient superstition with an excuse to chuck stuff at your family members.
What the Hell is Setsubun Anyway?
Setsubun (節分) literally means “seasonal division” and marks the day before the beginning of spring in the traditional Japanese calendar. It falls on February 3rd (or sometimes the 2nd or 4th, depending on the lunar calendar).
The whole point is to chase away evil spirits and bad luck from the previous year, and welcome in good fortune for the new season. Think of it as a spiritual spring clean, but with more shouting and bean-based projectiles.
The Ehomaki Challenge: Eating Sushi in Complete Silence
Here’s the main event: you’re supposed to eat an entire uncut sushi roll (ehomaki/恵方巻) in complete silence while facing the lucky direction for that year.
This year’s lucky direction: East-northeast (for 2026)
The rules are surprisingly strict:
- Don’t cut the roll (cutting = cutting your luck)
- Don’t speak while eating (breaks the spell)
- Face the exact right direction (use a compass app – seriously)
- Eat the whole thing in one go if you can
The rolls are absolutely massive – think about the length of your forearm. They’re stuffed with seven ingredients (representing the seven gods of fortune): typically cucumber, egg, eel, shiitake mushrooms, kampyo (dried gourd), sakura denbu (pink fish flakes), and something else that varies.
Reality check: Getting kids to eat a giant sushi roll in silence is hilarious. They make it about 30 seconds before giggling or asking if they’re done yet. We’ve learned to make smaller rolls for our little one.
Mamemaki: Throwing Beans at Demons
After the silent sushi session comes the fun bit – mamemaki (bean throwing).
How it works:
- Someone (usually Dad) puts on an oni (demon) mask
- Everyone else throws roasted soybeans at them while yelling “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (Demons out! Fortune in!)
- The “demon” runs away in theatrical defeat
- Everyone eats the number of beans equal to their age (plus one for good measure)
The beans are meant to purify your home and drive away evil spirits. The oni masks look properly terrifying – red faces with horns, wild eyes, and fangs. Perfect nightmare fuel for toddlers, but older kids absolutely love the chaos.
Pro tip: If you’re in Japan during Setsubun, convenience stores sell little packets of throwing beans (福豆/fukumame) with mini oni masks. They’re like ¥100-200 and make great souvenirs.
Where to Experience Setsubun in Japan
If you happen to be in Japan today (February 3rd), loads of temples and shrines hold mamemaki ceremonies:
Tokyo:
- Sensoji Temple in Asakusa – celebrities often show up to throw beans
- Zojoji Temple near Tokyo Tower
- Yushima Tenmangu
Kyoto:
- Yasaka Shrine – proper traditional ceremony
- Fushimi Inari Shrine
- Kitano Tenmangu
Osaka:
- Shitennoji Temple – one of the biggest celebrations
- Sumiyoshi Taisha
These events are free and usually happen in the afternoon. They’re loud, crowded, and brilliant fun. Local celebrities or sumo wrestlers often participate, throwing beans (and sometimes other goodies) into the crowd.
Why Kids Love It
Let’s be honest – any tradition that involves throwing things and yelling is going to be a winner with kids. Add in:
- Wearing scary masks
- Breaking the usual “don’t throw food” rule
- Eating sweets (the beans are slightly sweet)
- Making lots of noise
- The general silliness of adults running around pretending to be demons
It’s like Halloween’s Japanese cousin – a bit spooky, very silly, and completely harmless.
Quick Setsubun FAQ
Where can I buy ehomaki if I’m in Japan?
Every convenience store, supermarket, and department store food hall sells them on Setsubun. You’ll see them everywhere from late January onwards. Prices range from ¥300 for basic to ¥2,000+ for fancy versions with premium ingredients.
What if I don’t like sushi?
Some places now make ehomaki-style rolls with different fillings – katsu, fried chicken, even dessert versions. The tradition police won’t arrest you.
Can I join temple ceremonies as a tourist?
Absolutely! Everyone’s welcome. Just be respectful, don’t climb on things, and maybe duck when the beans start flying.
What do I do with leftover beans?
Eat them as snacks (they’re actually quite nice), or save them for next year. Some people also scatter a few around their home’s entrance.
Our Setsubun Plan
Tonight we’ll make some ehomaki, fire up the compass on our phones, and have a crack at eating in silence facing east-northeast.
Then someone’s going to put on our slightly terrifying oni mask (probably me), and beans will fly. We’ll vacuum up roasted soybeans for the next week.
It’s one of those traditions that makes absolutely no logical sense but is weirdly fun anyway. And honestly, any excuse to eat sushi and throw things at your family is alright by me.
おにはそと！ふくはうち！ (Demons out! Fortune in!)