Last Updated on January 12, 2026 by Vlad
I was scrolling through Reddit the other day and saw someone asking if Tokyo’s restaurants, shops, and trains are “over-heated” in winter. Their mate had just come back from Tokyo in early January and reckoned he was walking around in just a shirt because everywhere indoors was absolutely roasting.
As someone who’s currently spending winter 2025/2026 in Japan (and has done this dance many winter since 2004), I’ve got some thoughts. Spoiler: it really depends on where you’re from and whether you know how to dress in layers.
My Personal Experience This Winter
When I first started thinking about this topic, I’d been dining out daily for the last 6 weeks, and honestly hadn’t felt hot in restaurants. Not once. So I was ready to tell everyone not to worry about it.
Then yesterday happened.
We went to a sushi restaurant for lunch and it was properly hot when we first sat down. Borderline uncomfortable. After 20 minutes it either cooled down or we got used to it, but initially? Yeah, I was reaching for my water and rolled up the sleeves.
That same night we headed to a yakitori place for dinner. My father-in-law was feeling cold within 20 minutes and actually left early. My mother-in-law was wearing her jacket, as did a few other older customers. While some youngsters were in t-shirts! Same day, same city, very different.
That’s when it clicked for me – there’s limited consistency with restaurant heating in Tokyo. And when you think about it, restaurants are doing this impossible balancing act. They need to keep customers comfortable while their staff (who are constantly moving around) don’t overheat. Then factor in Japan’s large elderly population who tend to feel the cold more – some restaurants probably crank the heating to keep their older regulars happy, while others keep it cooler for younger crowds.
A busy izakaya full of people drinking will feel warmer than a quiet sushi counter. A place with elderly regulars might heat more than a trendy cafe. Sit near the kitchen and you’ll be warmer than by the door.
The bottom line? You can’t predict what any individual restaurant will be like. And this is exactly why the layering strategy matters – you need to be ready for anything.
As for trains? The heated seats have definitely made me drowsy a few times (which is lovely when you’ve got a long commute). The only time I actually felt hot was on the shinkansen coming back from Nagano after my Hakuba snow trip. I was in a hoodie with a t-shirt underneath, and yeah, I got a bit toasty. But that’s literally the only time on public transport.
Why Some People Think It’s Too Hot (And They’re Not Wrong)
Here’s the thing – “too hot” is completely relative to where you call home.
If You’re From Extreme Cold Climates
I saw this comment from a bloke in Montreal that perfectly sums it up: “We just had a spell of -30C for the last weeks… I keep seeing around 8 to 12 above zero in Tokyo. That is shorts on a terrace for a beer weather here.”
Fair enough! If you’re used to -30°C winters, Tokyo’s 8-12°C will feel like spring. And when you duck into a heated restaurant or train that’s sitting at 22-24°C? Yeah, you’re going to feel like you’re in a sauna.
The Canadians and Scandinavians on Reddit weren’t mucking about:
- “My ass literally melted to the train seat today. It’s so hot in trains, shops etc.” – Canadian traveller
- “Way too warm inside stores and restaurants” – Swedish traveller
- “I found it far, far too hot in restaurants, malls and trains” – Scandinavian traveller
One Swedish bloke even had to buy new shoes because his winter boots were unbearable indoors. That’s dedication to comfort right there.
If You’re From Milder Climates
Now, if you’re coming from Australia, New Zealand, California, London, or Hong Kong? You’re probably going to find Tokyo’s winter actually feels cold, especially outside.
Someone from SoCal wrote: “I’m here right now and maybe it’s cause I’m from SoCal but this cold is insane. More than anything is the wind.”
That tracks with my experience. When you’re out exploring Tokyo in winter, mornings and evenings can be properly cold. You’ll want that jacket, scarf, and gloves – trust me.
The Real Problem: People Don’t Layer Properly
This is where most travellers stuff up. They wear a chunky jumper with a massive puffer jacket and then wonder why they’re dying inside a 24°C train carriage.
The solution is dead simple: layers you can actually remove.
The Layering Strategy That Actually Works
Here’s what works for me and pretty much every long-term Japan visitor:
Basic Setup:
- Thin base layer (t-shirt or long-sleeve tee)
- Mid-layer you can easily remove (button-up shirt, thin jumper, hoodie)
- Outer layer you can stash in a bag (lightweight down jacket, windbreaker)
- Scarf you can whip off in 2 seconds
- Gloves that fit in your pocket
What to Avoid:
- Thick jumpers as your only mid-layer
- Heavy coats you can’t easily carry
- Winter boots with zero ventilation (seriously, that Swedish bloke wasn’t wrong)
- Multiple layers you can’t remove without doing a full strip-tease on the train
One Reddit user nailed it: “I usually wear a t-shirt under a button-up shirt and then a leather jacket. If it’s really chilly, I wear a scarf. When inside, I carry the jacket and scarf and put them back on when going outside.”
That’s exactly the approach that works.
Given that restaurant temperatures can vary wildly (remember my sushi vs yakitori experience?), having removable layers is even more crucial. You might walk into a place that’s roasting and need to strip down to your base layer, or you might end up somewhere chilly where you’ll want to keep everything on.
The Temperature Reality Check
Let’s be honest about what you’re actually dealing with:
Outside in Tokyo (December-February):
- Daytime: 8-12°C (feels colder in wind and shade)
- Morning/Evening: 2-7°C (properly cold, especially near water)
- Sunny spots: Actually quite pleasant
- Shaded areas: Bloody freezing
Inside (trains, restaurants, shops):
- Generally: 22-24°C (but highly variable in restaurants)
- Trains with heated seats: 24-26°C (hello, naptime)
- Shinkansen: Can get up to 26°C+
- Small restaurants: Anywhere from 18°C to 26°C depending on the place
My Honest Take After 20+ Winter Trips
Should you worry about overheating indoors? Not constantly, but it can happen.
Should you plan for it? Absolutely.
Should you also plan for places being too cold? Yes – because that happens too.
The beauty of Tokyo in winter is that you’re rarely stuck somewhere for hours. If a restaurant is too warm, you’ll be back outside in 30-90 minutes. If a train is hot, you’ll be off at your stop soon enough. It’s not like you’re trapped in a sauna.
Here’s what I recommend:
✓ Bring layers you can remove and stash easily ✓ Pack a small backpack or tote bag for storing jackets/scarves ✓ Wear shoes that work both inside and outside ✓ Accept that temperatures will vary – some places hot, some cold ✓ Check my complete winter packing guide for specific gear recommendations
✗ Don’t skip warm clothes because you’re worried about overheating ✗ Don’t wear your entire winter wardrobe all at once ✗ Don’t assume all restaurants/shops will be the same temperature ✗ Don’t stress about it – this is easily manageable
The One Time You Need Serious Warm Gear
If you’re heading up to snow country (Hakuba, Niseko, Nozawa Onsen), that’s when you need proper winter clothes. And even then, the same layering principle applies because mountain lodges and resort facilities are heated.
The Bottom Line
Yes, Tokyo’s indoor spaces are heated in winter. Some are too hot, some are too cold, most are just right. But it’s completely manageable if you dress smart.
The key is understanding that Tokyo winter means constantly moving between cold outdoor spaces and unpredictable indoor spaces. If you come from somewhere with -20°C winters where you just wear your parka all day, you’ll need to adjust your approach.
If you’re from a milder climate, you’ll probably find the outdoor temperature more of a concern than the indoor heating.
Either way, the solution is the same: layer up, bring a bag, be ready to adjust, and don’t stress about it.
Planning a winter trip to Japan? Check out my complete Winter in Japan guides for everything you need to know about visiting during the coldest months.
Got questions about Tokyo’s winter weather or what to pack? Drop a comment below – I’m here in Japan right now and happy to help based on current conditions.