Discovering Hakone

Last Updated on November 13, 2023 by Vlad

A Journey through Nature, Hot Springs, and Cultural Delights

Welcome to Hakone, a beautiful and popular destination known for its stunning natural landscapes, hot springs, and iconic views of Mount Fuji. Hakone is a mountainous area, located in the Kanagawa Prefecture, just a short distance from Tokyo. It’s part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, which offers a perfect combination of natural beauty and cultural attractions. It is a very, very popular destination with Japanese and foreign tourists alike. There is really a lot to do and see here, so join me as we explore Hakone and all of its beauty. There is a lot of info offered here, as well one of the largest Hakone photo galleries on the web!

Getting to Hakone

From Tokyo

There are lots of options of getting to Hakone from Tokyo, to suit almost any budget and anyone’s travel preferences.

  • By train: Hakone is easily accessible by train from Tokyo. The fastest way to get to Hakone is to take the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station. The journey takes about 100 minutes, and costs 2470 yen. From there you can catch a train or a bus to visit Hakone’s main attractions. The other option is to take the Ueno-Tokyo/Tōkaidō Main Line train from Tokyo Station to Odawara Station and to then catch one of the buses to your main destination in Hakone – this option takes more time but costs less money.

You can also embark on a short train journey from Tokyo to Odawara Station via the Tokaido Shinkansen. From Odawara, transfer to the Hakone Tozan Line, which will transport you through lush mountains and charming villages to Hakone-Yumoto Station, the gateway to the region.

You should also consider the Hakone Free pass which can get you from Shinkjuku to Odawara, and then provide a convenient transportation pass that allows unlimited travel within Hakone, including trains, buses, cable cars, ropeways, and even pirate ships on Lake Ashi!

  • By bus: There are also several bus services like Odakyu Hakone Highway Bus and Keio Bus, that run from Tokyo (and Yokohama) to Hakone. The journey takes about 2 and a half hours (from Shinjuku) and currently costs 2470 yen as well.
  • By car: If you have access to a car, Hakone is roughly a 2 hour drive from Tokyo. You’ll be driving through stunning scenery no matter which route you take. When time allows, I love driving to Hakone as I can easily go anywhere at my own place.

From Kyoto

To travel from Kyoto to Hakone, there are several transportation options available. Here are the most common:

Shinkansen: The Shinkansen bullet train is the fastest way to get to Hakone from Kyoto. There are several trains per day that run between Kyoto Station and Odawara Station. The journey takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes.

JR Tokaido Line: The JR Tokaido Line is a slower option, but it is also more scenic. There are several trains per day that run between Kyoto Station and Mishima Station. The journey takes about 3 hours.

Bus: There are several bus companies that offer direct bus services between Kyoto and Hakone. The journey takes about 4 to 5 hours. The advantage of taking a bus is that it offers a direct connection without the need for transfers.

Things to do in Hakone

As a passionate traveller and avid explorer, let me take you on a journey through the top things to do in Hakone. A destination that weaves together nature’s splendour, cultural treasures, and moments of pure relaxation.

Hot Springs

Indulging in the therapeutic waters of Hakone’s hot springs, known as onsen, is an essential part of any visit to this picturesque region. Renowned for their healing properties and relaxation benefits, Hakone’s hot springs offer a rejuvenating experience amidst beautiful natural surroundings. Here’s what you need to know about Hakone’s hot springs:

  1. Variety of Hot Springs: Hakone is home to a wide variety of hot springs, each with its unique characteristics and mineral compositions. Sulfur springs, known as “onsen-gensen,” are famous for their distinct sulfuric aroma and are believed to have beneficial effects on the skin and respiratory system. Salt springs, or “ensui-gensen,” contain high levels of salt, offering a mildly salty bathing experience. Iron springs, or “chalybeate springs,” are known for their reddish-brown color and are believed to improve blood circulation.
  2. Onsen Experience: The onsen experience in Hakone goes beyond simply soaking in hot water. Many hot spring facilities offer tranquil outdoor baths, allowing you to immerse yourself in nature while enjoying the soothing warmth of the waters. The serene atmosphere, surrounded by lush mountains or overlooking scenic landscapes, enhances the therapeutic benefits of the onsen.
  3. Recommended Onsen: Hakone boasts a range of exceptional onsen establishments. Here are a few notable recommendations:
    • Tenzan Onsen: Known for its rustic charm, Tenzan Onsen offers a traditional and serene atmosphere. The open-air baths are nestled in a lush forest, providing a tranquil and picturesque setting for relaxation.
    • Hakone Yuryo: Hakone Yuryo offers a blend of indoor and outdoor baths, including various types of tubs like wooden tubs and stone baths. The facility also provides additional amenities such as massage services and relaxation areas.
    • Yunessun: For a unique and entertaining onsen experience, visit Yunessun. This hot spring theme park offers a range of themed baths, including wine baths, coffee baths, and even green tea baths. It’s a fun and memorable way to enjoy the benefits of hot springs.
  4. Bathing Etiquette: It’s important to familiarize yourself with the proper etiquette when visiting hot springs in Hakone. Before entering the baths, it is customary to cleanse your body thoroughly in the shower area. It’s also important to be respectful of others by keeping noise levels low and refraining from taking photographs in the bathing areas. Following these guidelines ensures a pleasant and harmonious experience for all guests.
  5. Tattoo-Friendly Onsen: Traditional onsen establishments in Japan may have restrictions on entry for individuals with tattoos, as tattoos have historically been associated with organized crime. However, there are tattoo-friendly onsen in Hakone that allow guests with tattoos to enjoy the hot springs without any issues. These establishments usually have private bathing areas or specific hours dedicated to guests with tattoos.
  6. Private Onsen: For a more intimate experience, consider staying at a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) that offers private onsen facilities. These private baths allow couples, families, or individuals to enjoy the hot springs in a more secluded setting. It’s a perfect option for those seeking privacy or for couples looking for a romantic retreat.

Scenic Spots

Hakone is blessed with a plethora of stunning landscapes that will leave you in awe. From panoramic views of Mount Fuji to serene lakes and volcanic valleys, here are some of the must-visit scenic spots in Hakone:

Owakudani

Nestled in the heart of Hakone, Owakudani is a volcanic valley known for its otherworldly beauty. This is Hakone’s most popular tourist spot, and its not hard to see why! Take a scenic ride by bus, hike for the super fit, drive if you are renting a car, or ride the amazing Hakone Ropeway to reach this remarkable destination. As you explore the area, witness the steam rising from active sulphur vents, creating a mystical atmosphere. Be sure to try the local specialty, black eggs, boiled in the volcanic waters, which are said to add seven years to your life.

Being the most popular sightseeing location in the region, Owakudani can get very busy. If possible you should try to visit on a weekday.

Owakudani is a place that defies expectations and invites you to embrace the unknown. It’s a reminder of the untamed forces that shape our planet, and the remarkable beauty that emerges from the depths of the Earth. So take a leap of faith, immerse yourself in the enigmatic atmosphere, and let Owakudani leave an indelible mark on your soul. This is a place where nature’s grandeur and humankind’s desire to control it intertwine, creating an experience that lingers long after you’ve left its embrace. Take your time, enjoy the scenery, and spend a moment thinking about the power of mother nature and human kind, as you are not likely to visit a similar place again!

Lake Ashi

Situated in the heart of Hakone, Lake Ashinoko (as it’s called by the locals) is a serene and picturesque crater lake that offers breathtaking views. Formed by a volcanic explosion about 4000 years ago, the lake is situated some 700m above sea level. The lake never freezes, so you can visit at any time of the year.

Take a leisurely cruise on one of the iconic pirate ships, known as “Hakone Sightseeing Boats,” or any of the other ferries (tip – other ferries will be less crowded and give you the chance to enjoy the scenery without the crowds and to take that perfect picture should the weather allow), and admire the surrounding mountains and lush greenery with 360 degree views. View the Hakone Sekisho Checkpoint and the red torii archway of Hakone-jinja Shrine from on board the boat. On clear days, you can view Mt. Fuji.

I highly recommend going on a cruise around the lake. Those pirate ships are more popular with visitors and as such are way more crowded, so if you want the opportunity to take in the scenery and to take some great photos take one of the other cruises!

Hakone Ropeway

For an elevated experience, embark on the Hakone Ropeway journey. This aerial cableway provides spectacular panoramic views of Hakone’s natural wonders. As you ascend, marvel at the sprawling forests, mountain peaks, and the glistening waters of Lake Ashi. The journey offers a unique perspective of the region’s beauty.

Taikanzan Observatory

The Taikanzan lookout offers awe-inspiring, 180 degree views of the surrounding landscapes as far as the eye can see. From the observation deck, you’ll be treated to a breath-taking panorama of rolling hills, dramatic volcano domes, lush forests, shimmering Lake Ashinoko, the majestic Mount Fuji, and Sagami & Suruga Bays. The tranquil atmosphere and stunning vistas make it a perfect spot to appreciate the beauty of nature. As the sun sets, the colours of the sky blend with the landscape, creating a truly magical experience. A visit to the Taikanzan Observatory promises a serene and unforgettable encounter with Hakone’s scenic splendour. If visiting on a clear day, the lookout offers some of the very best views of Mt Fuji in the area.

Hakone Shrine

Located on the shores of Lake Ashi, the Hakone Shrine is a cultural gem nestled in a tranquil setting. Approach the shrine’s main building, known as the Hongu, and marvel at its beautiful architecture. Take a stroll along the lakeside path, enveloped by towering cedar trees, and feel a sense of serenity in this sacred space.

Hakone Komagatake Ropeway

Connecting Hakone-en and Hakone Komagatake, a volcanic mountain peak of some 1,356 meters in just 7 to 8 minutes, for just 1,800 yen (return ticket for adults). It’s an adventure that will take your Hakone experience to a new level (or height I should say)! Hakone’s magnificent landscape will reveal before your eyes, together with majestic Fuji-san (on a clear, sunny day). Standing at the summit of Mt Komagatake, I can’t help but feel as being on top of the world. A short walk away, you’ll also find the Hakone Mototsumiya Shrine, or the original Shrine of Hakone! This is my personal favourite ropeway in Hakone, and it’s an adventure that is mostly overlooked by foreign tourists.

Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands

For nature enthusiasts, a visit to the Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands is a must. This lush garden showcases a wide variety of plant species, including beautiful flowers, moss, and wetland vegetation. Explore the well-maintained paths and immerse yourself in the tranquility of this natural oasis.

Hakone Sekisho

Uncover the history of the region at the reconstructed Hakone Sekisho, a checkpoint on the old Tokaido Highway. Delve into the rich history of Hakone by visiting the reconstructed Hakone Sekisho, a significant checkpoint on the historic Tokaido Highway. The Hakone Sekisho served as a vital control point during the Edo period (1603-1868), ensuring the safety and security of the shogun’s capital, Edo (present-day Tokyo). If you are a history buff like myself, Sekisho is the place to go. Here’s what you can expect when visiting Hakone Sekisho:

  1. Historical Significance: Hakone Sekisho was one of the fifty-three checkpoints established along the Tokaido Highway, the main road that connected Edo and Kyoto. These checkpoints were strategically placed to monitor and regulate the movement of people and goods between the two cities. Hakone Sekisho played a crucial role in maintaining order and preventing unauthorized entry or smuggling.
  2. Reconstructed Buildings: Explore the meticulously reconstructed buildings of Hakone Sekisho, which give visitors a glimpse into the checkpoint’s past. The main gate, guardhouses, administrative offices, and other structures have been faithfully recreated to resemble their original appearance. Walk through the wooden corridors and imagine the bustling activity that once took place within these walls.
  3. Interactive Exhibits: Hakone Sekisho offers interactive exhibits and displays that engage visitors in the historical narrative. Learn about the processes and procedures followed at the checkpoint through multimedia presentations, models, and informative panels. Gain an understanding of the thorough security measures employed to maintain order and protect the shogun’s interests.
  4. Cultural Performances: Enhance your experience at Hakone Sekisho by witnessing cultural performances that bring the Edo period to life. From martial arts demonstrations to traditional music and dance, these performances showcase the vibrant heritage and customs of the era. Immerse yourself in the captivating ambiance and appreciate the skills of the performers.
  5. Surrounding Gardens: After exploring the checkpoint, take a stroll through the beautifully manicured gardens surrounding Hakone Sekisho. Enjoy the tranquility of the green spaces, adorned with seasonal flowers, carefully pruned trees, and traditional architectural elements. The gardens provide an opportunity for quiet reflection and appreciation of the natural beauty that complements the historical site.

Hakone Open-Air Museum

The Hakone Open Air Museum is a unique and captivating art destination nestled in the picturesque surroundings of Hakone. Renowned for its collection of outdoor sculptures and impressive indoor galleries, this museum offers a delightful fusion of art, nature, and interactive experiences.

  1. Outdoor Sculpture Park: The highlight of the museum is its vast outdoor sculpture park, which spans over 70,000 square meters. Stroll through beautifully landscaped gardens, meandering pathways, and open spaces adorned with sculptures crafted by renowned artists from around the world. The collection features a diverse range of styles, materials, and artistic expressions, providing a feast for the eyes and a thought-provoking experience.
  2. Sculptures and Installations: The outdoor sculpture park showcases over a hundred sculptures, including works by prominent artists such as Henry Moore, Rodin, and Niki de Saint Phalle. Marvel at the monumental sculptures that blend harmoniously with the natural landscape, creating a dialogue between art and nature. From abstract forms to figurative representations, each sculpture tells a unique story and evokes a range of emotions.
  3. Picasso Pavilion: The Hakone Open Air Museum is home to the world’s first permanent exhibition of Pablo Picasso’s work. The Picasso Pavilion houses an impressive collection of his ceramics, paintings, and sculptures. Explore the evolution of Picasso’s artistic style and gain insights into the creative genius of one of the most influential artists of the 20th century.
  4. Indoor Galleries: In addition to the outdoor sculptures, the museum features several indoor galleries that showcase a diverse range of artworks. Explore the Main Gallery, which hosts temporary exhibitions featuring contemporary and modern art from Japan and around the world. The Symphonic Sculpture Gallery offers a unique sensory experience, combining sculptures with music and light effects to create a multi-dimensional artistic encounter.
  5. Children’s Art Garden: The museum is designed to engage visitors of all ages, including children. The Children’s Art Garden is a dedicated area where young visitors can unleash their creativity through various hands-on activities. From creating artwork with colorful sand to participating in workshops and interactive installations, children can immerse themselves in the world of art and imagination.
  6. Hot Spring Foot Bath: After exploring the museum, take a moment to relax and soak your feet in the hot spring foot bath located within the museum grounds. Sit back, enjoy the warm waters, and admire the surrounding beauty while experiencing the soothing benefits of the natural hot springs.

Transportation within Hakone

Navigating Hakone is a breeze with its efficient transportation system. Hop on the Hakone Tozan Railway, which winds its way through the mountains, offering stunning vistas along the way. Buses and cable cars connect various attractions, allowing easy exploration of the region. Consider the Hakone Free Pass for seamless travel and cost savings. It provides access to 8 different transportation modes within Hakone, and essentially allows you to cover all the main sightseeing attractions. The Hakone Free Pass is available as a 2-day or 3-day pass, with the adult 2-day pass currently costing 6100 yen (departing Shinjuku) and the 3-day pass costing 6,500 yen (departing Shinjuku). Children pay 1100 and 1350 yen respectively.

You can also rent a car, even if its only for a couple of hours, for the ultimate way to explore this magnificent place.

Accommodation and Dining

Hakone’s accommodation and dining options ensure that visitors can find the perfect place to stay and satisfy their culinary desires. Whether you choose to immerse yourself in traditional ryokan hospitality or opt for a modern hotel, and whether you crave authentic Japanese flavours or international cuisine, Hakone has something to offer every traveller.

Accommodation in Hakone:

Hakone offers a range of accommodations that cater to various preferences, from traditional ryokans to modern hotels. Here are some options to consider when choosing where to stay in Hakone:

  1. Ryokans: Immerse yourself in Japanese culture and hospitality by staying at a traditional ryokan. These inns feature tatami-matted rooms, futon beds, and exquisite traditional kaiseki meals. Experience the warm hospitality of the ryokan staff, indulge in private hot springs, and enjoy the tranquil ambiance that characterizes these accommodations. I highly recommend staying in a ryokan, as it offers an experience on its own.
  2. Hotels and Resorts: Hakone is home to a selection of hotels and resorts that cater to different budgets and preferences. From luxury establishments with stunning views and top-notch amenities to comfortable mid-range hotels, you’ll find a range of options to suit your needs. Some hotels feature their own hot springs, allowing guests to enjoy the rejuvenating waters at their convenience.
  3. Guesthouses and Minshuku: For budget-conscious travelers or those seeking a more communal experience, guesthouses and minshuku (family-run guesthouses) provide affordable accommodations. These establishments often offer shared facilities, including communal kitchens and lounges, fostering a friendly atmosphere and opportunities to meet fellow travelers.
  4. Western-Style Accommodations: If you prefer a more Western-style experience, Hakone has a selection of Western-style hotels that offer modern amenities and comforts. These accommodations often blend contemporary design with elements of Japanese aesthetics, providing a comfortable and familiar stay.
  5. Private Onsen and Villa Rentals: For a truly exclusive and private experience, consider renting a villa or a vacation home with its own private onsen. These properties allow you to enjoy the hot springs in the privacy of your own space, offering an intimate retreat for couples, families, or groups of friends.

Dining in Hakone:

Hakone’s culinary scene is as delightful as its natural beauty. From traditional Japanese cuisine to international fare, you’ll find a variety of dining options to satisfy your cravings. Here are some dining experiences to consider in Hakone:

  1. Hakone Soba: One of Hakone’s culinary specialties is soba, or buckwheat noodles. Indulge in a bowl of freshly made soba noodles served hot or cold. The delicate flavor and smooth texture of Hakone soba are sure to leave a lasting impression.
  2. Kaiseki Cuisine: Experience the art of Japanese cuisine with a kaiseki meal. Kaiseki is a multi-course dining experience that showcases seasonal ingredients and meticulous presentation. Many ryokans and high-end restaurants in Hakone offer kaiseki meals that are both visually stunning and delectable.
  3. Local Delicacies: Hakone is known for its black eggs, which are eggs boiled in the hot springs and said to have longevity-giving properties. Try these unique eggs, available at Owakudani and various souvenir shops. You can also sample other local delicacies like “hoshi-gaki” (dried persimmons), “yuba” (tofu skin), and “kuro-tamago” (black sesame-flavored rice balls).
  4. International Cuisine: Hakone caters to diverse tastes with a range of international dining options. You’ll find French, Italian, Chinese, and other cuisines represented in various restaurants throughout the region. These establishments provide a fusion of flavors and offer a refreshing change of pace.
  5. Tea Houses and Cafes: Take a break from your explorations and relax in one of Hakone’s charming tea houses or cafes. Enjoy a cup of traditional matcha tea paired with Japanese sweets or indulge in freshly brewed coffee and pastries. These cozy establishments provide a welcoming atmosphere to unwind and recharge.

Tips for visiting Hakone

  • The best time to visit Hakone is during the spring months or in autumn (fall for my American readers), when the weather is mild and the scenery is simply stunning.
  • If you want to see Mount Fuji, try to visit on a clear day.
  • Wear comfortable clothes and shoes if you plan on hiking or walking.
  • Wear sunscreen if visiting in warmer months (from late spring to middle of autumn) as UV can get very high.
  • Make sure you have ample cash with you. Not all places accept credit or debit cards.
  • If you are planning on staying in a ryokan (which I highly recommend), please book your stay in advance.
  • Hakone offers a lot to do and see, which is nearly impossible to do in 1 day. I would highly recommend spending 2 days in Hakone.

Plan your Hakone getaway today and immerse yourself in the harmonious blend of nature, culture, and relaxation. As you explore this picturesque region, you’ll be mesmerized by the lush landscapes, serene lakes, and majestic mountains that provide a stunning backdrop to your adventures. Indulge in the therapeutic hot springs that rejuvenate both body and soul, immersing yourself in centuries-old traditions of relaxation and healing. Delve into the rich cultural heritage of the region through its historic sites, art museums, and traditional arts and crafts. Whether you seek tranquillity, artistic inspiration, outdoor exploration, or gastronomic delights, Hakone offers a perfect blend of experiences. So embark on your journey and discover the enchanting charms of Hakone, a destination that promises to leave you with unforgettable memories and a renewed sense of wonder. If you need any additional tips or info, or more photos of Hakone, please feel free to reach out.

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